2024 has featured a ton of new watch releases, from the truly breathtaking to the flat out groan-inducing. From the $88,000 Hublot Pocket Watch to the 31 shades of Nomos Tangente to Rolex’s very own Invicta homage, there certainly was introduced a watch for every bloke imaginable. Here are my 5 favorite releases this year, in order:
5) Omega Speedmaster: First Omega In Space
I won’t bore you with heaping my praise on top of every other watch content creator’s about this one. The bigger question though for most, has been rather this one vs. the white-dial Speedmaster Professional released earlier in the same year. For me it’s the FOIS no contest. Yes, the sunburst blue-gray dial looks amazing and yes, the faux-tina actually looks to me to have been the right choice here, but the single biggest factor pulling me into the FOIS side in this Omega-on-Omega tug of war match are the hands. That alpha handset. I like. Me lose ability to speaking words correct because it’s such pretty.
4) Parmigiani Fleurier Toric
Parmigiani Fleurier makes pretty watches. They make pretty movements. Heck, even the name Parmigiani Fleurier sounds pretty despite the image of Parmesan cheese that might otherwise pop into your head when you first read the name.
I’m not a dress watch guy. And I’m certainly not a $50,000 dress watch guy, but this one makes me dress watch curious. It doesn’t make sense…the PF Toric just looks like a dress watch and should therefore have no right to tickle the senses as it so does. But the design cues subtly whisper Parmigiani Fleurier just like grating the perfect amount of fine-aged Parmigiano Reggiano on a flawless pasta dish. Add the solid gold movement bridges along with the now renown PF finishing and we have ourselves a proverbial feast for the eyes.
3) Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Moon Phase
Say what you want about sector dials, but I’m partial to them. Advanced puns aside, this is simply one well designed watch. Although I mentioned above that I’m not a dress watch guy, there’s no objective argument that one can make against either the value proposition or the simply well thought-out execution of the overall package that is the Millesime Automatic Moon Phase. At $2325 new, only Frederique Constant plays on the same plane, except the Raymond Weil feels way less of a mall watch (sorry, I love the stuff FC is doing these days, but this statement still kinda holds true).
At 39.5mm x 10.5mm, give me that PVD rose gold and blue dial variation and I might just wrap up my collection for good (not!). Oh and did I ever mention how good that moonphase looks? It looks good.
2) H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Skeleton Tourbillon
I keep a running list in my head of my top 10 most admired watch brands, and as of writing Moser is #3. This ridiculous court jester of a watch is a big reason why. It’s hard to say what makes some skeletonized watches more pleasing than others (probably just how everything is laid out?), but this one definitely takes the cake over some of its other high-horology peers from Audemars Piguet and the aforementioned Parmigiani Fleurier. At more than $85,000 will I ever be able to afford it? Well, never say never, but unlikely. Am I sad about that? Just a little.
1) Hermès Cut
I know. I can already see the contortions of confusion and disgust on your faces. A fashion brand, how could I. But before you incise me to pieces here, may I remind you that with Hermès’s 25% stake in Vaucher, the movement manufacturing arm of Parmigiani Fleurier, they thereby claim a slice of their calibre production? That’s right, Hermès and Parmigiani Fleurier get their movements from the same source. And have you seen that circle-in-a-cushion case and that svelte, highly finished bracelet in person? And that deliciously quirky dial?? I could go on. I would advise letting the Cut lacerate your thoughts before rendering judgement.
The Hermès Cut is my 2024 Watch of the Year, and I don’t think it’s particularly close. A devilishly personal and subjective thing, watches are, and the Cut has simply slashed its way to the top of my rankings this year.
Postscript
Those are indeed my top 5, but I’m definitely no professional in keeping up with every single watch release in a calendar year. Any I should’ve considered? What were some of your favorites? Let me know in the comments below!