I keep a running list of my ten most admired watch brands, and it’s always in flux. Yes, horological preferences are just that…preferences, but just in case I might be able to inspire someone to look at a brand in a new light, well then I’ve done my job!

10. Seiko

If this was a top 11 list, 11th would be Grand Seiko. It was hard, but I think Seiko edges out its up-market conglomerate-mate barely. Why, you might ask? Yes, GS can boast about its technical achievements like the dual-impulse high beat and spring drive innovations, along with the Zaratsu polishing and mesmerizing dial designs, but truth be told, GS is so clinical I actually feel like I’ve been transported to a doctor’s office when I wear one. They have about as much personality as my old gastrointestinal specialist when he used to describe my bowel movements. It’s just so shocking how the opposite is the case with Seiko. I personally own an Alpinist, and every time when I ask myself if I would rather have it or a Grand Seiko of some sort, just one glance at that quirk of a watch and my heart warms up knowing I have an Alpinist to call my own.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre

Call it Jaeger-LeGoat. The single fact that JLC had historically provided movements for brands like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin (notably in the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and original 222 respectively) make JLC the Goat in my eyes. Top of the pyramid. The main reason why they’re #9 and not higher is that for the most part, JLC’s designs in their own watches haven’t been nearly as inspiring as some of the pieces that’ve housed their movements. Sure, the Reverso is a classic, but the buck kinda stops there. However, as someone who owns a beautiful Master Control, and with some of their more recent achievements like the Duometre, JLC could definitely creep up the rankings in the future.

8. Oris

Independents, and specifically independents that do things for the little guy (i.e not exactly Richard Mille) have an inherent leg up in my book. And Oris, especially with their still relatively recent introduction of the Calibre 400 is one such independent. They also have a pretty diverse lineup from the ProPilots, to the Divers/Aquis to the Big Crown. I’m not the hugest fan of their designs, but there’s no doubt that Oris is doing some cool (or unconventional) stuff. Looking at you, Miss Piggy.

7. Glashütte Original

When it comes to movement finishing, there is no greater value than GO on this side of High Horology. The designs are eclectic too; from the funky Seventies to the mesmerizing Panomatic Lunar to the fantastic ergonomics of the SeaQ, GO has something for everyone. Well, everyone with large-ish wrists. I just wish they were generally just a tad smaller and/or thinner across the board, especially the Panomatic Lunar. But then again, if GO did that, they might start butting heads with A. Lange & Sohne’s price tier, and we don’t want GO to do that.

6. Omega

I’ll start with the negatives first: Omega, stop releasing so much damn stuff! If I were to be honest, I think Omega could learn a thing or two from Rolex about brand perception control. With that out of the way, I do love me some Omega. They’re one of the few higher end brands that can get away with the “playful” moniker while still simultaneously exuding premium. The Co-Axial escapement is so ubiquitous now, I would say it’s actually become underrated in how people forget about its very real ingenuity. There’s METAS too, and a whole lot of heritage in the Speedmaster and Seamaster lineups. Oh, and have you heard of some of the more mindbending stuff Omega’s been up to lately? Like the METAS certified minute repeater “Chrono Chime” and the strangely under-the-radar Calibre 321 Speedmasters. Omega is a proper horological heavyweight, not just some brand that makes a moon watch.

5. Rolex

I wanna say a 5th place finish is an appropriate fate for Rolex in the eyes of a watch enthusiast. Rolex just does some things perfectly, and no one can deny this. You’d think designing a bracelet that is both comfortable and delectable wouldn’t be too hard, but just get into watches a little bit and you’ll be wildly disappointed. But this, along with top-class marketing and clinical build quality, is where Rolex shines. Dare I say, peerless. On the horological side of things, they had the audacity to decide they weren’t going to finish movements and simply hide them behind solid casebacks, and I applaud this. They know their strengths and play to them masterfully. And don’t even get me started on how Rolex thought Master Chronometer wasn’t good enough and decided to in-house certification too. The result? Superlative chronometer. It’s even got 2 more syllables than master.

4. Nomos Glashütte

The story is there. A brand that set up shop in the 1990s post-Berlin Wall and went fully vertically integrated in just a few decades. The impeccable execution of the Bauhaus code that would make Mr. Bauhaus himself shed tears of pride. Even dipping into High Horology waters with the Lambda collection…Nomos is a brand that you just can’t hate. Someone once told me that a third of the workers at the Audemars Piguet factory wears Nomoses. And you know what? I believe it, long lugs be damned.

3. H. Moser & Cie.

If I were a watch brand, I’d be Moser. Ever since I learned of the Swiss Alp Watch Final Edition, I was done for. A small seconds subdial made to look like the loading wheel of an Apple product in an overall watch made to mock resemble an Apple watch? Only Moser could get away with this, and this is only scratching the surface. If you’ve felt the bracelet of a Streamliner or experienced the trippy black hole-ness of Vantablack, it would make sense to you too that H. Moser & Cie. is indeed the tongue in the proverbial cheek of the watch industry.

2. Vacheron Constantin

Historiques Americain 1921. Overseas. Traditionnelle. 222. Cornes de Vache. Fiftysix. Now after this absolute field trip across watch genres, need I say more? Good, didn’t think so.

1. Chopard

That’s right, I have Chopard above VC and Moser. But if you’re shocked at this, I’m guessing you’ve never been blessed by the presence of a Calibre 1.96 descendant, or beheld the beautiful guilloche of an L.U.C 1860, or put the staccato of an 8Hz Cadence movement to your ear. Qualité Fleurier and shiny Lucent Steel are just icing on the cake. Heck, if you’re old school, Chopard’s one of the few brands where you can still regularly find the Geneva Seal too. I simply adore what Chopard has been up to on the watchmaking side of their shop, and frankly, so should you.

There you have it! I’ll probably update this list every once in a while, but feel free to try and tell me why I’m wrong. Or just agree with me, that’ll work too.