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There’s a Teddy Baldassarre video that lives pretty much rent-free in my head about how the Rolex GMT-Master II has a monopolistic stranglehold on iconic GMT watches. It’s an island with a population of one. Unlike the chronograph, which has no shortage of <horological> household names, we as a community ought to work on registering more GMT watches in the hall of fame. As a part of my own contributions to solving this puzzle, here are six alternative GMTs that, at least in my mind, lay claim to a piece of the iconic GMT pie.

Before we begin, some ground rules. The mentioned watch must have either a traveler’s GMT movement where the local hour hand jumps as opposed to the GMT hand, or a caller GMT (where the GMT hand jumps) with an extra gimmick. So with no further delay, enjoy this meticulously thought-out list (in no particular order):

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Let’s the get the obvious one out of the way first shall we? I’m honestly not even sure if the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT even qualifies as a GMT Master II alternative, because in some sense, it is a GMT Master. I’m gonna go ahead and put it here anyway since it, by title, isn’t. But as far as the current vintage-inspired trend goes, the BB58 GMT is the functional resurrection of the aluminum-bezeled GMT Masters of old. Thanks Mr. Wilsdorf!

The reason for this pick over the original Black Bay GMT is the same why every watch influencer on the internet does: wearability. 12.8mm in thickness vs. the 14.7mm on the original. That’s almost 2 whole mms folks, which in the watch world, is gargantuan. Plus the 47.8mm lug-to-lug vs. the 50mm on the original helps ensure the lugs don’t hang over the edge of your wrist among the smaller-wristed out there.

It’s not perfect though. Some have complained about the gilt indices (I’m a fan of it, however) and the choice of the coke color scheme instead of pepsi (kinda makes sense since Rolex probably doesn’t want to cannabalize into GMT Master II territory). Still, even though it’s not visually my personal cup of tea, this 2024 release is undoubtedly and objectively a home run.

Bonus goodies: in-house caller GMT movement with a healthy 65-hour power reserve and the T-fit clasp, which honestly is among the best out there regardless of price point. My only nitpick with it is that the clasp locking mechanism doesn’t feel as satisfying as say, the Rolex Glidelock (although nothing really is).

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

What better piece to follow the BB58 GMT up than its fiercest, most direct competitor, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time? Freshly (as of writing) available in 42mm and 39mm, it became subject to no minor conversation as a piece that’s carved out a market for affordably priced true/flyer GMTs. It’s a real looker too! The 42mm was released first, and some have complained about the relatively long 49mm straight lug-to-lug measurement, but those criticisms were put to rest within just a few years with the introduction of the 39mm edition and its sub-47mm lug-to-lug.

Relatively unknown to even watch enthusiasts, Longines lays claim to being the inventor of the “dual time” complication dating back to the early 20th century, albeit in pocket watch form (Glycine is usually credited as the creator of the “modern” GMT complication as we know it). This cool piece of history, along with the Zulu Time’s aviation-themed good looks, definitely punches a ticket to the revered GMTs table.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic

While the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic is technically an office GMT where the hour hand of the secondary time zone jumps, history has proven that we can rest assured that Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Grande Maison, will not leave us dry with such pedestrian function.

In addition to a seemingly superfluous power reserve indicator (just to fill the empty space, presumably) and a teeny tiny day/night indicator for the dual time subdial, the JLC MCG also packs a worldtime disc that jumps in harmony with the subdial (not a true world timer, however). And all this in a 40mm x 11.8mm thick case!

Nomos Tangomat GMT

Speaking of watches that pack a rotating worldtime disc without actually being a worldtimer, we have our next contender the Nomos Tangomat GMT. Styled in the likeness of Nomos’s Tangente line, Bauhaus enthusiasts ought to have no trouble appreciating the pristine lines of the case and the printed indices. The differentiating factors lie in the city indicator at 9 o’clock and the time for said city at 3.

Unfortunately this piece may not be for everyone with its relatively long 50.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, something Nomos by now is infamous for. But with the fully in-house movement, something Nomos is unequivocally famous for, in conjunction with its reasonable asking price, those with stout wrists would be hard-pressed to find an equal in this price arena, with the exception of the aforementioned Zulu Time and Black Bay 58 GMT of course.

Chopard L.U.C GMT One

Now for a slightly unorthodox pick, the Chopard L.U.C GMT One. I’ll admit off the bat that I may have a bias for Chopard watches, but let that not detract from the GMT One. It possesses a special distinction of being neither a flyer or an office GMT in that the GMT hand is always fixed relative to the local hour hand. Say what you want about this, but there’s no denying that this maintains peak aesthetic form on the dial. So how do we observe different time zones you might ask? This is where the second crown comes into play, rotating the internal 24-hour bezel to have the GMT hand display the desired time.

With very wearable dimensions (42mm x 11.7mm), the piece also benefits from Chopard’s finishing prowess, even featuring a nicely finished movement, in line with the L.U.C label. Strangely the only permanent fixture in the collection is with a rose gold case, with a ceramised titanium limited edition version available at time of writing. I personally prefer the rose gold one though anyway.

Grand Seiko SBGM221

Now here’s the piece that I would say currently comes closest to earning the “iconic” moniker in GMT land. Why? I’m honestly not so sure, but if I had to guess, it would have something to do with that cream ivory dial. Something about the dial with the sharp dauphine hands and applied indices lends itself as a recipe for dressy timelessness that sets the piece apart from…well, anything else. Among the watches featured, the Grand Seiko SBGM221 is the only true dressy piece, and off the top of my head I can’t come up with another dressy GMT that can quite touch this one.

Sure it’s a little thick at a listed 13.7mm, but it’s otherwise very wearable at 39.5mm in diameter and 46.9mm from lug tip to lug tip. This, combined with its relatively fair price of $4900 USD, provides a reason for the SBGM221 to be on anyone’s shortlist for a GMT.

Honorable Mentions

Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual Time – Didn’t make the list due to its limited edition and now unobtainium nature, the matte blue color scheme with the orange accents alone could make this watch a permanent rent-free resident in anyone’s head.

Norqain Freedom 60 GMT – Doesn’t make this list because of its lack of party tricks or anything special to separate itself from the GMT crowd, but it sure looks nice!

Epilogue

Thus concludes my take on my 6 candidates for ascension into the GMT hall of fame. Any I left out? Let me know in the comments!